![]() Xx CTB Gel for the Tota, Gaffer's Tape, Trickline, Zip-ties, LED "twinkle" lights, etcĪll this fits inside this case.I hope to post pics soon on my blog.hope this helps! Edited Novemby John DimalantaĪll this fits inside this case.I hope to post pics soon on my blog.hope this helps! *1x F&V R300se Daylight Ring Light (this is usually in my camera bag as it can be mounted to camera)ġx Falcon Eyes 18D Daylight FLEX LED Panel (replaced old Lowel Rifa-Light)ġx Yongnuo YN360 BiColor/RGB LED Wand (good as a kicker or back light and also RGB for color effects)Ģx 5x7 Collapsible Double-Sided Backdrops (one is Chroma/Gray and the other is Black/White which can be used for bounce or negative fill)ĥx Compact Light Stand ( < 30" collapsed height)Ħx Sandbags (empty bags that I fill with whatever) I just updated my "All-in-One" Kit, which I guess is my 'one-man band' kit.the main items below: you want all your lights in one box Wirth wheels :) and Im pretty sure I wouldn't want to be lugging even a 1.2K HMI around as a OMB. I think there are alternative to HMI,s now. getting the back ground out of focus is vital !. most "location" interviews Im doing is some pokey room. in general there's sadly no cheaper alternative to HMI. Useless for shooting against windows but for that you're looking for a 1,2K HMI at least, for key, and on a bright day 1,2K is pushing it. No flags means you carry half the grip hardware. They're the fastest lights to set up as they almost never need flagging and have virtually no spill. If it's possible to shoot mostly in darkened interiors or at night, tungsten Dedos are the easiest to use. ![]() if your shooting anything larger then I think you need bigger lights really. larger the object you are lighting the bigger source you need, if you want a soft light.I have the large size DOP snap box. but in themselves they are not actually "softer" than putting a light through the same diffusion but making sure not to have a hot spot.but basically yes. Sorry for my ignorance but what are show cards exactly?īook lights are good for small locations as they "fill" the diffusion more evenly. What do you think of the Westcott DP Kit/Booklight kit? Would that be a good investment for larger subjects/scenes? I could use my Astra to shoot through Michael ![]() The combination is perfect for close Interviews though I find the light gets quite hard when the subject is larger and the soft box is further away. That's the only lights I own for the moment with a DOP Choice Soft Box. in general there's sadly no cheaper alternative to Robin You can have no place for a light but you can always tape a card to a wall. Too often a reflector doesn't give you enough and it's easier to shine an extra light into it than try to, say, double purpose the backlight so it reflects and gives fill. So I light the BG shadows some 2 stops over black, make some "window light" streaks or whatever. There's a good old convention in portrait lighting that BG contrast range should be within the range of the portrait - makes sense to me, in interviews at least. That's kind of opposite of what you want - drives eye away from the face. ![]() I'd say these days you stop down more to show the environment :) - if it's a location interview.Īnd even if it's defocused - 90% of the time, it seems, when you find a perfect (compositionally) BG for your subject, that BG is much too contrasty, more contrasty than your subject will be under your lighting. you don't have to light up the background as you used to when it was all in focus. depends on the location but with cameras now with s35mm sensors its a lot easier to get a nice looking interview than it used to be in ENG days. styles have changed a bit from 4 light interviews I think. a couple of fold out reflectors and one negative fill. a lot easier than frames and polly boards. I,d go with a Bi color LED kit thats already sold in a Pelican case. ![]()
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